Almost all hand-wired amps are made with either tag boards (like Vox), turret boards (like Marshall) or eyelet boards (like Fender), or occasionally tag or turret strips (like Hiwatt). It's also important to note that no AC30 is "point to point" - that means no circuit board of any kind, with the small components connected directly between the chassis-mounted ones. It's very important to know why this is different from the Birch-Stolec era Voxes, which are one of the reasons why PCB has such a bad name - these are terrible, shoddy amps with just about every design error possible in them - *and* they use a PCB, of extremely low quality and with all the wrong types of parts mounted on them.
It is useful to identify various different series of amps though…
The most important thing to avoid is fitting components which get hot onto the PCB, and also anything heavy enough to vibrate and crack its solder joints. So you could legitimately argue that it's a hand-assembled PCB amp - but it is not, by the usual definitions guitarists use, a hand-wired amp - that would require that it doesn't use PCBs.ĭoes it matter? Your guess is as good as mine! Personally I think it doesn't if many of the usual problems with PCB construction have been avoided - which they have. It's also reasonably likely that given the age of the amps, the PCBs were hand-fitted with the components, rather than it being done by a robot.
But it is *also* hand-wired to a considerable degree - all the connections off the PCBs are done by hand. The amp is a PCB amp - that's indisputable, it contains PCBs. Now, if you really want to make it complicated… They addressed this flaw when they designed the AC30C by removing the rectifier tube completely (though, IMHO, they should have removed the Standby switch instead.Well, that's pretty much what those tan-coloured boards are - although they're only single-sided, so the printed circuit stuff is all on the other side where you can't see it. Once the amp is up and running, it's safe to use the Standby switch as a Mute switch between sets at at gigs or whatever. 3) Tape off, hard bypass, or just ignore the Standby switch.DON"T use it when powering on. There is also the potential danger that a GZ34 tube the shorts when it fails can damage he power transformer.ġ) Test the fuses are recommended (if a fuse has blown something went wrong to make it blow) 2) Replace and test the reciter tube.
If you have the amp In Standby when powering up, the GZ34 fully warms up, but the reservoir cap is "empty," it hasn't been charged up as soon as the player flips the Standby switch, the reservoir cap tries too charge up too fast and rectifier tube is fried by something known as flash over.
But once it's fully warm, it passes everything as efficiently as it can. That means it limits current/voltage through it as it warms up. The amp, in general, was in really good shape, and for 200 CDN, it was a no-brainer. The 5AR4/GZ34 is a slow ramp up rectifier tube. I just dismantled a Chinese built VOX AC30CC2, which I picked up dirt cheap, and found a problem with the rectifier socket and preamp socket solder joints. The CC2 sounds better than the current AC30’s.
The Eminence Red Coat’s are Eminence’s answer to the Celestion Alnico Blue’s. They placed the Standby switch between the GZ34 rectifier and the reservoir cap (the first filter cap), the switch should be be placed AFTER the cap. Vox AC30CC2 with Eminence Red Coat Alnico’s in decent shape. Harga jual termurah untuk product Vox AC30C2 30W 2x12 Inch Tube Combo dapatkan informasi harga kredit alat musik Amplifier. Historically, AC30's did not have Standby switches and, IIRC, the AC30CC was the first version ever to add one. It's a pretty good bet it's a blown rectifier tube (as already suggested by u/llbnf_jason).